Giraffes in Kenya

Now that our daughter Karen has had time to select from the mass of photos taken during our 3-week trip to Kenya in late November and early December I can share some with you.  These are all of giraffes, and feature the three species found in various parts of the country.

First up, the beautiful Reticulated giraffe (my favourite), found only in the north-eastern part of the country. These ones were photographed on Borana, where the cover picture of my entire website was taken a few years ago.





This series from Borana showing an animal getting to its feet was not taken by me, but either by Karen or her husband Robert.

 

   

Might as well have a feed now that I'm up

We had three cameras on the go the whole time and the other photos below are more difficult to assign.

We saw this bull seeming to take shade under a big thorn tree in Nakuru National Park

He is a Rothschild’s giraffe. How can you tell? There are two features. First, the Rothschild is the only one in Kenya that has no varied marking below the hock or carpus (aka, and mistakenly, known as the front knee). Second and only present in the bull, there are five horns.  The three in front, two larger and either side of the ears, and one knobby one dead centre. The other two can only be seen from the rear, and are smaller that the side ones. Take a look and you will see them. 

 

These Rothschild’s were also in Nakuru NP, and two of the bulls were competing in the necking ritual. Quite a contest.

 

Rothschild’s giraffes were once restricted to the extreme west of Kenya and the last remnant population was translocated to Nakuru about 30 years ago from Solai, not far from Kitale and the Uganda border. There are Rothschild’s in Uganda, most abundant in Murchison Falls NP.

 

Then we saw Maasai giraffe in the Maasai Mara where we spent two delightful nights at the Porini  camp of Gamewatchers. (Porini is a Swahili word mean “in the bush”, “in the wilderness” etc).

I love the way this fellow's mane falred as he ran to catch up with is herd-mates

I had saved an extra giraffe treat for the family on our last day. We went to the Giraffe sanctuary near Nairobi and there saw a few Rothschild’s giraffes that had been there since 1979. You can see more about them at their website here. Some of the giraffe are so tame that they will take food out of the mouths of willing tourists - Karen included.

However, the guide warned us that if you stand too close, and have no food to offer, the impatient would-be feeder might well bludgeon you.

Maasai Stories

In December I was with my family in Kenya’s Maasai Mara. We stayed at Game Watchers delightful Porini Camp in the Selenkay Conservancy and of course saw a range of neat things. Our grand daughters had a truly grand time, as did our daughter and her husband and it was a delight to share with them some of the things we so love about Kenya.

Our tour guide as we drove around was a young Maasai named Ben ole Tongoyo, who has already passed his Kenya Professional Safari Guides Association silver level tour guide test and is working towards the highest level of certificate – a gold. He was very knowledgeable about many things, but it was nice to be able to share a few things that he had not picked up on.

One was the business of why hippos mark their territory by shaking their tails as they defecate. This behaviour is only done by dominant males and I showed the girls, and Ben, a spot where a hippo has marked his exit trail to deter would-be challengers.

The business of tail wagging has led to the wonderful story, that I told Ben and the family, about the desperate desire of all hippos to live in the water and escape the sun’s burning rays. After their king’s repeated conversations with Ngai (the great god who lives in the mountains), they were allowed to do so, but only during daylight hours and under strict conditions. I’m sure you know it, so I won’t repeat it.

What I will share are the skeletons of three stories that Ben gifted me as we swapped animal stories about creatures he knew well. He is not a storyteller as such, but he gave me enough to build upon. As far as I know none of these stories has ever been published.

The first was about a time a long time ago when Maasai women had cows which were wildebeest. It does show some attitudes that would not be considered PC in today’s culture, but it is an ancient story. Basically the women failed to care for their charges because of the heavy and persistent rains. After many days of neglect the cows wandered off and went on along trek, returning once a year to check things out, but never again being domesticated. Instead the women had concentrate of their other tasks, hauling wood and caring for the children. Here you can see the Maasai manyatta beyond the trees and the scattered wildebeest in the foreground. Are they waiting for attention?

The second story was about the theft of ostrich chicks by lion and how none of the animals would stand up for the upset parents until ground squirrel showed them all up.

I’m working that one up with pictures right now. Might try and publish it. 

 

The third one was how tortoise escaped his impending execution. All the other animals hated and feared him and had decided by a vote to get rid of him once and for all . That too needs a work-up.

As we departed I left my copy of the Jonathan Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals with Ben. Let’s hope it helps him in his efforts towards that gold certificate.